Reader mail, and more

Odd barns, mining, cooking, pen pals, Q & A

Sat, 19 Dec 2009 13:45:17 -0600

Truman Koehn of Ashwaubenon, a retired locomotive engineer, responds to the round barns column (released July 18):

“As a young fireman on the Chicago and North Western Railroad, I recall the round barns that we would see around Mequon. Today I-43 travels this exact five-mile route. We could see 10 round barns from the locomotive, on either side of the tracks, in that stretch.

“Bit by bit, I saw every round barn disappear as the new developments filled in the former farmlands north of Mequon. I never knew much of their history or why so many became concentrated in this one particular area north of Mequon. I do recall some people calling them ‘Dutch’ barns and others calling them ‘German’ barns – but I never knew if there really was a Dutch or German connection to these barns or if this was just local lore.”

So Truman was glad to read about these barns and their structural complications: “On behalf of all of us former Shoreline/Lakeshore division retired C&NW engineers, thanks for the memories.”

Lovers of round barns will love the photography of Richard Wunsch of Wausau; rural landscapes are among his specialties, and he sells sets of round barn notecards. For more: www.richardwunsch.com, 715-848-3981.

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“I will be teaching a literature lesson on Wisconsin’s lead mining history, making the connection to the term "Badger State" for fourth grade students,” writes Jamie Burch, Kenosha.

“I was hoping to use travel or historical brochures as a source of content knowledge, instead of just textbooks. I want students to know of other forms of literature and/or places to find information.

“Do you know of any State of Wisconsin repository that would have travel or historical brochures concerning the lead mining area and history of Wisconsin?”

Wisconsin Historical Society materials should be helpful. Go to www.wisconsinhistory.org (“teachers & students”). One of the state’s most notable mining communities is Mineral Point, so also note the Pendarvis state historical site.

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“We enjoyed our visit to Amy’s in Mountain” (July 4 column topic), writes Ann Goetsch of Merrill. “The menu was excellent and had a Caribbean theme. Our daughter helped make the bruschetta. Others made coconut shrimp.

“It was a fun thing to do. I met some of the regulars, including the lady who ‘unreserves’ her spot when she isn’t able to attend” the Northwoods gourmet cooking classes.

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If Ann’s name sounds familiar, it may be because I wrote about her face-to-face meeting with a long-ago pen pal from Japan (Sept. 19 column). She offers this update:

“We are going to Japan at the end of the year, to spend time with the (Tetsuji) Ogawa family. We are both excited and aware that we are going to a totally different culture. I’m sure we will have a great visit. Thank you again for your part in reuniting Tetsuji and I, and our families.”

When I traveled to Japan for a Women of Wings sister-state goodwill trip, we had a little class on "culture shock" because the immersion can be a little unsettling – as well as fascinating. It all comes down to this: Expect everything to be different from what you know.

Asian foods and customs might make you feel a little uncomfortable, or out of place. That is all a part of the fun of your excursion, and a big smile goes a long way if you’re ever feeling at a loss for words.

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The pen pal column also generated this, from Lynn Lensmire of Marathon, who began a pen pal relationship in 1955, while a freshman in Wausau:

“My German teacher, Miss Bailey, had been an exchange teacher in Germany the year before. She asked if I would like to write to a girl who had been a student in her English class.

“She said Renata, the German girl, was a lot like me. That began a friendship that took us through high school, university, marriage, children, adopted children, deaths of loved ones, careers of teaching, a 25th anniversary trip to Europe (in 1985, where my husband, John,
and I stayed and traveled with Renata and her family) and many more years of being friends.

“There are so many treasured and interesting things that brought together two young girls who lived so far apart, especially during the Cold War.”

“Although Renata has since lost her battle with breast cancer, I still correspond with her husband and family, and speak to them every Christmas Day. Our youngest daughter, Summer, corresponds with Renata’s youngest daughter, Veronica.”

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“I was recently traveling south on Hwy. 43, from Two Rivers, and noticed a brown sign indicating ‘plank road’ to the west,” writes Helen Brown of Little Chute. “Is this an actual example of an old plank road that we can visit? I would like very much to take my granddaughter to see it. We are currently reading ‘Plank Road Summer.’”

You likely saw a sign for the Old Plank Road Recreation Trail in Sheboygan County.

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“My husband decided we should take a Friday-to-Sunday vacation and wants to go to the Apostle Islands,” Maureen Hanauska of Milton wrote, in late summer. “Where can I get information on this, and do you have any suggested places to visit?”

Here are online links that should be of interest:

www.nps.gov/APIS (Apostle Islands National Lakeshore)
www.bayfield.org (Bayfield tourism)
www.bigtop.org (Big Top Chautauqua, excellent outdoor tent show entertainment in summer)
www.artesianhouse.com (Artesian House, a classy bed and breakfast, with a friendly innkeeper)
www.rittenhouseinn.com (Old Rittenhouse Inn, the area’s best-known inn, also serving gourmet meals with a theatrical flair)

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Jessica of Alma Center liked the fall wine column (released Sept. 12) and told me about her favorite Wisconsin winery. “Munson Bridge Winery in Withee is beautiful,” she writes. “We have been out there for musical events as well as weddings. It is located just 5 miles off Hwy. 29, about halfway between Eau Claire and Wausau.” For more: 715-229-4501.

Rosemary Milano of Stevens Point makes a pitch for Parallel 44 Winery and Vineyard, Kewaunee. The annual fall festival involves “wine tasting, grape stomping, music and vendors, in a beautiful country setting.” For more: 920-362-1562.

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“We are looking for a getaway of five or six days, up to 10 hours of driving. Any ideas? I just cannot think of a single place in the Midwest where I would actually want to go,” wrote Linda Bauer of Madison, near the end of summer.

I recommended two western Michigan places: Saugatuck, a charming and artsy community, and the Traverse City area, which has great little wineries and lots of cherries.

“Two thumbs up for Saugatuck,” Linda later wrote. “We stayed at Lake Shore Resort, about four or five miles out of downtown Saugatuck and about two from downtown Douglas. It is remote and secluded, right across the road from a private beach on Lake Michigan. Many steps up/down, but three decks along the way for viewing or resting.

“It was one of the most peaceful and relaxing places I've ever been. We got there in just under five hours, on a half tank of gas and less than $10 in tolls.”

Add a dune buggy ride – speeding up and down sand dunes, around curves, through woods. “I am not a roller coaster fan, but I loved this,” Linda says. A Star of Saugatuck paddleboat cruise took the travelers onto the Kalamazoo River and Lake Michigan.

Saugatuck was the topic of this June 26, 2004, “Roads Traveled” column.

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“Are there any really good golfing resorts – outside of the ones in Kohler – ones that are ‘up North’ or on the western side of the state,” asks Mary Rohde of Kenosha.

Tagalong Resort (near Rice Lake) is lovely, and the course is patterned after St. Andrew's in Scotland. Check out this column from the archives (Aug. 26, 2006).

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“Are you familiar with the Lake Puckaway area near Montello and Princeton,” asks Christie Gause-Bemis, Wisconsin Rapids. “It is a gorgeous area filled with rolling hills, old farms and Amish buggies. Amongst that scenery is the Cedar Hill Barn.

My brother and his fiancee are getting married at Cedar Hill, and the barn is set up for retreats, weddings and reunions. It is a beautiful and peaceful place with a fascinating history and story behind it.”

For more: 920-394-3607.

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“Your article about Kohler Co. factory tours (Jan. 31, 2009) got to me through inter-department mail, and at first I was not sure why, until I saw your name,” writes MaryAnn Bergin, a Kohler employee.

“I am married to a Bergin. Just a little curious about you. Wondering if we could be related somehow.”

I grew up in Sheboygan County but have lived in Madison for more than 20 years. We also share a name with a famous tin whistle player in Ireland and a fancy pastry chef in Las Vegas.

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“After your talk at our library, I mentioned a restaurant north of Milwaukee, where you ordered your food in the bar and when the staff was ready, you would be called into the dining room, where the table was set and had salads waiting,” writes Mary Kern of Rhinelander.

“The waitresses were not specifically for your table – any waitress would help you – and I remember the food being very good. Wanted you to know that the restaurant is Schwarz’s, in the little town of St Anna,” near New Holstein.

I know it well. Get there early (say, 4 or 4:30 p.m.), or expect to wait an hour or longer for seating. For more: 920-894-3598.

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Sad news: Back ailments have forced Roger Blake of Albuquerque, N.M., the semi truck driver who shot artsy photos while on the road, into retirement. I met him at Mickey’s Diner in St. Paul, Minn., and wrote about the encounter (Dec. 18, 2004). Roger routinely sent beautiful images via e-mail, accompanied by a line or two of insight about life.

“The choice was between shutting down or sending out mediocre stuff once in a while,” he writes. “Not much of a decision, but a sad and painful one to have to make.

“A bad back is no joke, and mine will get worse before I can get some kind of surgical relief. It will happen, but not anytime soon. I’m doing a bit of writing and plan to get back to painting.

“I’ve traveled far, met many wonderful people, captured images I couldn’t have imagined, and learned much along the way. Our e-mail journey has been a special joy that I will remember and cherish forever.

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“Thank you so much for giving us your time Saturday morning,” writes Judy Siegfried of Madison’s ProRail, a rail transportation advocacy group. “Gatherings are always better when everyone participates, and your sensitivity and acknowledgement of others in your comments helped people feel welcome and included.”

Her group backs and publicizes other mass transit circuits, including the new Milwaukee-Madison-Minneapolis service. The route operates Friday through Monday. For more: www.badgerbus.com, 608-255-1511.

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“You might find the Adams Deli, Adams, an interesting place,” writes Joan Smiley, Wisconsin Rapids. “Tucked in the little downtown of Adams is this small shop. They make homemade sausage, breads and Polish entrees. A very large percentage of their canned and packaged foods are imported from Poland.”

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“My husband and I had gotten to know Leah Caplan over the past years as summer guests at the Washington Island Hotel” in Door County, writes Kathy Foley of Wausau. “We learned that Leah is no longer there, as your column confirmed. I’d like to reconnect with her.”

Leah recently began work as executive chef at Metcalfe’s Sentry, Madison. She is the conduit between the store and local products/ farmers, further enhancing the grocer’s reputation as a “buy-local” enterprise. The development of tasty and inventive deli recipes and gift baskets with local foods also falls under her job title.

For more: www.shopmetcalfes.com, 608-238-7612. Metcalfe’s also operates a grocery in Wauwatosa.

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“I have enjoyed your articles for years, but I think it would be great to have a small map area in your column of the area you are writing about. Then I wouldn't have to get my Wisconsin map out,” writes Teri Leaf of Eau Claire.

I recently added maps to the columns online, Teri; look for them as they are archived.

Reunion ideas, funeral wieners, rustic roads

Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:31:49 -0500

“I had never heard of ‘funeral wieners,’ until your book,” writes Kendra Meinert of Green Bay. “Funny, though, because we have ‘funeral pickles’ where I’m from in Minnesota.”

“Funeral wieners became somewhat of a tradition in the Lakeshore Area when Kohlbecks operated the Whitelaw Sausage Co.” in Whitelaw, says Dennis Hernet of Manitowoc, who contends the present owners “changed the recipe.”

The butcher shop “still has great meats and sausages that are made from the Kohlbeck cookbook,” Dennis says. It “is still our destination for some products, but not the funeral wieners.”  Hmmm. I ate one of those wieners raw and loved it, but judge for yourselves at the annual WienerFest, June 19-21 in Whitelaw Community Park.

Watch “WienerFest: The Movie,” polka to Happy Schnapps Combo music, enter the Wiener Dog Races, show up for the parade and take a whiff of the WienerFest Cook-off.

For more: www.whitelawsausage.net, 920-732-3222. And the book? It’s “Hungry for Wisconsin,” available through any bookstore, Amazon.com (or me, if you want a signed copy).

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“Thank you for advice about the Speckled Hen Bed and Breakfast” in Madison, writes Mark Tryon of Fond du Lac. “My wife and I enjoyed the hospitality we found there. Now we are looking for a cabin on a lake to take our four children (ages 8-19). Do you have any suggestions for nice swimming and fishing type cabins within two hours away?”

Try the Waupaca area, Mark. It is beautiful, peaceful and rightfully known as the Chain O’ Lakes area. For more: www.waupacamemories.com, 888-417-4040.

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“I have a friend from Chicago who’s turning 50 this year,” writes Lisa McGovern of Eagle. “She’s a foodie and quite a wine aficionado. Friends and I want to take her somewhere lovely overnight to celebrate – a place where she could maybe see or be involved in the process of creating fine food and then enjoy it as well.   “This is more than just a restaurant experience – we’d like to go to the heart of where the food originates. But she’s not the down-home, hearty, farm-meals type – more upscale, high-end food for her. I guess I’d like to show off Wisconsin as well, especially to someone from Illinois!”  Consider a stay at Little Sugar River Farm, an organic farm and inn near New Glarus. For more: www.littlesugarriverfarm.com, 608-862-2212.

Superb, locally crafted products define the area. Examples: New Glarus Brewing Co. (and its new tasting facility), Chalet Cheese Cooperative’s limburger (eat it on rye, with onion, at Baumgartner’s in Monroe).
 Also worth noting: The Dining Room at 209 Main, gourmet dining in small-town Monticello. The husband-wife team worked in Madison’s finest restaurants, then decided to simplify life and abbreviate work. Fine fining doesn’t mean fancy attire; bicyclists from nearby trails are welcome. Open Wednesday to Saturday nights.

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“Each year, 10 to 12 of us have a three-day family get-together,” says Kathleen McCarthy of Gleason. “We take turns finding a place and area of interest to both ladies (such as shopping) and men (history, hunting, fishing).

“My husband and I take our turn at planning this year. Is there a listing of homes to rent, or bed and breakfasts in Wisconsin? I do not have access to a computer, so my resources are limited.”

The Wisconsin Bed and Breakfast Association directory is available through the state Department of Tourism at 800-432-TRIP and www.travelwisconsin.com. Or view contents at www.wbba.org.

I’ve also had good luck with Vacation Rentals by Owner, Kathleen, but you need computer access. Head to www.vrbo.com, where property listings can be viewed by geographic location, then rental size and cost.

Where to go? The beautiful Lac du Flambeau area is an understated treasure. Consider Dillman’s Bay Resort (www.dillmans.com, 715-588-3143), a private and pretty setting with motel rooms to 10-person condos. Owners provide as little or much structure (pontoon boat rides, art classes, meal preparation) to the day as you want.

Learn about native American culture at the George W. Brown Jr. Ojibwe Museum, gamble at Lake of the Torches Casino, shop in touristy Minocqua.

Time it right, and autumn color could be gorgeous. A big event on Sept. 26: Minocqua’s annual Beef-A-Rama cook-off of roasts.

For more: www.minocqua.org and 800-44-NORTH; www.lacduflambeauchamber.com, 877-588-3346. Since you don’t have computer access, head to the public library and ask for help getting online. Staff, especially reference librarians, should be eager to assist.

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“I loved the Frugal Traveler series,” writes Deb Tuszkiewicz of Kenosha. “We were planning to visit several of the places, but I misplaced the articles. How do I get another copy?”

Head to www.examiner.com/madison, where I am the Wisconsin Culinary Travel Examiner. My payment is based on your page clicks, so please click away! My intent is to streamline column archiving at www.roadstraveled.com by the end of this year.

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“After my husband and I retired, we purchased a small but cozy motor home for the purpose of traveling throughout Wisconsin,” write Bob and Ruth Cline of Vesper. “Our first interest is Wisconsin Rustic Roads (which take us to) beautiful wildflowers, small streams along the roadsides, old abandoned farms, quaint little towns and villages.

“We have found covered bridges, old stone bridges, single-lane roads cut through a bluff and more. We camp in small, out-of-the-way areas. We walk trails and roads, bicycle, take photos, visit with farmers working the fields. We visit artisans in their home art galleries, and we read in the quiet of the woods. Get the word out: Wisconsin has so many hidden treasures.”

For a Rustic Roads list, consult the state Department of Transportation at www.dot.wisconsin.gov (search for “rustic roads”). The program was established in 1973 to identify the state’s most scenic country roads.

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“You missed listing Alley Stage at Shake Rag Alley” in a recent look at seasonal, outdoor theaters, notes Gary Knowles of Madison. “Very nice venue and top-quality theater.” For more: www.alleystage.com, 608-987-3292.

“You left out a summer theater that has been in the Northwoods for over 30 years,” writes Jim Driscoll of Fond du Lac. “Northern Lights Playhouse, Hazelhurst, has at least six different plays from now until Sept. 1.” For more: www.nl-playhouse.com, 715-356-7173.

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“You wrote about my small, salvage grocery store just outside of Wautoma, Country Discount Grocery,” writes Patricia Quillen. “We have stories of single moms, retired people, low-income people and large families all thanking us daily for being here. Some have tears in their eyes, which gives us tears in our eyes. Many say they could not make it through the month without us.”    For more: http://countrydiscountgrocery.com, 920-787-5000.

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“I enjoyed the article on the Executive Residence tours in Madison, but what I found quite troubling was your decision to not describe the decorated trees as Christmas trees,” writes Dennis Hemauer of Fond du Lac. “My dictionary has no entry for ‘holiday tree’ but it does have a description for ‘Christmas tree.’ Please don't let the loud minority stop you from proper verbiage.”

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“Being rather new to Wisconsin, I especially enjoy reading your columns for ideas of interesting places to visit,” writes Dorothy Shields of Marshfield. “I’ve clipped the columns often, but is there is a searchable file online, to provide me with long-term and easy access to your material?”

Not at this time, but I’m thinking about it. The catch is that I need to make a living from what I write. Any potential online advertisers out there?

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For more about barn quilt projects outside of Wisconsin, go to www.ohiobarns.com, then click on “quilt” (under “other interesting barns”). The advice comes from Cindy Northup of Sheboygan.

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Mary Schwandt of Eagan, Minn., noticed the Alpha Delights column and questions the Wisconsin Bakers Association’s optimistic assessment of the industry. “We just had two family bakeries close here in the last two months,” she reports.

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“You said Florence County has the second smallest population in Wisconsin,” writes Irmgard Meinhardt of Greenwood. “Which county is smallest?”

By population: Menominee County, which the U.S. Census Bureau estimates has 4,571 residents (Florence County has 4,652). By area: Ozaukee County, which is 232 square miles.

Food favs: La Baguette, Mille’s Sausage

Sat, 1 Nov 2008 12:56:56 -0500

“You asked for places to see and try,” wrote Pat Tesar of Edgerton, after my recent appearance on Wisconsin Public Radio. “I really hesitate to do this ’cause when a place gets published that we really like, then we can’t get in anymore and it’s no longer enjoyable to go there.”

Pat then proceeds to list more than a dozen favorite restaurants, including these near-water locations: Walden: A Supper Club, 2472 Wallace Lake Road, West Bend, 262-334-4664 (“I’m in my 60s and this has been a favorite since I was a kid.”); Kingston House, 210 N. South St., Kingston, www.thekingstonhouse.com, 920-394-3011 (“It’s a food orgy. Great food, great drinks, at low prices and on the water”) and Fins Bar and Grill, 723 E. Ellendale Road, Edgerton, www.finsbarandgrill.com, 608-884-0346 (“The best pizza, sandwiches – and on the Rock River”).

I’m personally partial to Pat’s choice for “best dive tavern food” – The Harmony Bar, 2201 Atwood Ave., Madison, 608-249-4333. Chow down on gourmet pizza/sandwiches in a no-fuss sweatshirt and jeans setting.

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 Jim Dannenberg reported that La Baguette, a dazzling French bakery, has moved from Minocqua to 7424 Mineral Point Road, Madison. “They seem to be doing well and still make the best bread I’ve had outside of France,” he wrote.

Master baker Olivier Vigy and wife Carine met in France, imported their equipment from France, speak French as they work and produce exquisite French pastries, quiches, brioches and – yes – baguettes. We met in Minocqua, and I’m (selfishly) glad to welcome them to Madison.

Jim, who lived in Hawaii 30 years before recently returning to Wisconsin, wrote about the bakery for the Los Angeles Times years ago.

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Sherri Stephens of Memphis responded to my column about South Dakota. “I want to turn my quest to visit Crazy Horse and my friend’s love of outsider folk art into our next pilgrimage,” she wrote. “If you have any input about South Dakota and folk art, please drop me a line.”   I took that as an invitation to talk up the abundance of Wisconsin outsider art, much of which is protected and preserved by the Kohler Foundation. For more about the work of these unusual self-taught artists: www.kohlerfoundation.org.
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Lloyd Arndt of Madison wants us to know about Animal Gardens and The Dancing Horses Theater, Delavan, which he discovered during a bus trip to the Lake Geneva area. Owner Dana Montana’s Arabian horses “put on quite a show.” Also on the 40 acres are a tropical bird show, outdoor zoo and indoor quarters for baby animals.

“I was quite impressed,” Lloyd said. “They tell me that not many people know of them.” For more about these attractions at 5065 Hwy. 50: www.animalgardens.com, www.thedancinghorses.com, 262-728-8200.

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Amatore and Michael Mille, whose family’s Mille’s Italian Sausage food stand is the Wisconsin State Fair’s oldest, announced that the sausages are being sold at “better food markets throughout the region.” This recent move is a response to “ever-increasing customer requests” for the product.

The Mille family has sold tons of these sausages at the State Fair since 1932. For more: www.millesitaliansausage.com, 414-763-4653.

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John Delaporte of Marathon City was irked by the omission of Nelsen’s Hall in my column about Washington Island. “This is the most famous landmark on the island,” he argued. “I think you really dropped the ball on this one, although the balance of the article was well done.”

I had written about Nelsen’s on an earlier occasion, so the slight was nothing personal. And I am among the 10,000 adults per year who earn a Bitters Club membership by drinking a shot of bitters.

Nelson’s is Wisconsin’s oldest tavern, having earned the ability to stay open during Prohibition because the barkeep successfully argued that the alcohol-rich (as in 90 proof) Angostura Bitters had medicinal value. For more: www.washingtonisland.com/nelsens, 920-847-2496.

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Jane Balch of Mount Horeb asked for advice about where to celebrate her wedding anniversary and husband’s 50th birthday during the Memorial Day weekend. “We don’t like crowds,” she hinted, so one option I gave was Leah Caplan’s Washington Hotel, 354 Range Line Road, Washington Island.

“Should be pretty peaceful there because the tourist season hasn’t yet kicked in,” I suggested.

“I just made reservations,” Jane responded. “I would have never considered this, but I’m sure it will be perfect.”

For more: www.thewashingtonhotel.com, 920-847-2169. Nov. 7-9 is Juniper Harvest and Cooking with the Spirits Weekend; guests pick wild juniper berries, used in Death’s Door gin, and are taught to cook with the alcohol.

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The coolest grandma that I know, LuAnn Williams of Madison, filed an update about the annual trip that she planned for her granddaughters, Jill and Melissa. This year’s destination was New Orleans.

“We’re looking forward to a ‘Katrina tour,’ where we’ll actually see where the levee gave way, and see the Ninth Ward firsthand,” she wrote. “We’ll listen to jazz at Preservation Hall, take in Jackson Square – with the wonderful beignets and chicory coffee – and enjoy a Mississippi River trip.”

Breakfast at Brennan’s, a viewing of the IMAX movie “Katrina” and a visit to an above-ground cemetery also were on the itinerary.

I had the good luck of seeing LuAnn this month, and she says the trip went well. Now she welcomes ideas for a 2009 trip with her granddaughters, a teen and preteen.

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“I thoroughly enjoyed your articles about Bavaria,” writes Jean Drewiske of Wisconsin Rapids. “We have traveled to many of the countries in Europe, and it is so great to refresh the mind and see how someone else pictures the same things we saw.”
Look for columns about Italy and Ireland during the next few months, Jean!
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It was fun to watch Ronnie Hess of Madison share cooking advice during a session of this year’s Wisconsin Book Festival, and she also provides interesting tips about group travel with Wisconsin-based organizations.

“Check out Hidden Treasures, which leads tours for folks from Wisconsin, Minnesota and Arkansas,” she writes. “We went on the master gardeners’ trip to Costa Rica trip last year, and it was excellent.” Destinations for 2009 include Italy, Costa Rica, Scotland and New Zealand. For more: www.hiddentreasuresbotanicaltours.com.
Ronnie also mentioned Karl Gutknecht’s small group tours, which include one to Germany in December that includes me as an invited guest. For more about the Madison-based Cycle Ventures International: www.culturetouring.com, 800-546-8520.
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“When I started hunting many years ago, my father got permission to hunt land owned by Bill Bergin,” wrote Kurt Wakefield of Sheboygan, after my column about the fading community of Hulls Crossing. “I remember the old farmhouse with no windows, dilapidated front porch, an old tractor overgrown with vines – and one lone pine.

“Even with all that going on, the old farm still held fast to its former glory. To be honest, I had more fun talking with your father and poking around the old barn and outbuildings” than hunting.

“I have to admire the guy, as he was always trudging along through (the adjacent Sheboygan County Marsh). He helped me find my way out more times than I care to admit.”

I appreciate Kurt’s candor and thoughtfulness. It has been ten years, this month, since my father’s death. He was one of a kind, exasperating and endearing.

BOW, chocolate, tours, German heritage

Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:12:36 -0500

I read your article about BOW (Becoming an Outdoor Woman) and noted the reference to the outdoor bathroom issue. The book “How to S!!! in the Woods” by Kathleen Meyer (Ten Speed Press) is full of funny anecdotes of mishaps in the outdoors but also covers the practical matters, including a chapter just on women’s issues. It’s a great way to let people know how to “go” outdoors. No matter how dysfunctional you might feel, someone else has made a bigger muck of it.”

-- Laura Brown, Madison

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We enjoyed your list of Wisconsin chocolate candy makers, but here are others that are outstanding:

Hughes Homaid Chocolates, 1823 Doty St., Oshkosh, located in a house. People line up outside to get in to pick their chocolates. Long, long, lines!  End-of-the-Trail, 928 E. Main St., Waupun: outstanding chocolates and candies. www.endofthetrailcandy.com, 920-324-3331  Confections for Any Occasion by Joel Bernhard, 101 N. Milwaukee St., Theresa: Joel is a blind candy maker who bought an old general store and has a restaurant there, The interior still looks like the old-time store. www.confectionsbyjoel.com, 920-488-9269

-- Nancy Younkin, Fond du Lac

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I’m a huge fan of chocolate and dare to even call myself a connoisseur, having tasted chocolate from all over the world. Another Wisconsin favorite that you didn't mention is Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier, 2086 Atwood Ave., Madison. www.gailambrosius.com, 608-249-3500  -- Lisa Percy, Stevens Point

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Our travel business is about partnerships – with local experts – and sustainability, the investment in regional and local culture abroad. We create and foster friendships. We aim to leave where we visit better than when we came. It’s small group quality, in-depth cultural experiences: We stay in family-owned inns/hotels and dine in family-owned restaurants.    Our offerings this year include “Food Fun, Fitness, Family and Favor,” Bologna and the Adriatic Riviera, with Suzy Favor Hamilton; “Capture Croatia,” with Joan Gillman of the University of Wisconsin School of Business; “Focus on Croatia,” with Sun Prairie photographer Chris Joyner; “The European Union in Depth,” Frankfurt, Berlin and Prague, with Jeff Mayers, WisPolitics.com president; “Wines of Burgundy, with Paris,” Brian Johnson of the Madison Club; and “In the Steps of the Saints, with Paris,” sacred sites of France, with Steve Ellsworth of Sinsinawa Mound.    Look for online updates soon at www.culturetouring.com or call 800-546-8520.

-- Karl Gutknecht, Madison

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You featured us in your article about people who travel with with grandchildren. We are about ready leave, with Jill and Melissa, for our annual trek – this time to New Orleans. We’ll tour areas hit by Hurricane Katrina, listen to jazz at Preservation Hall, have beignets and chicory coffee at Jackson Square, enjoy a Mississippi River ride and see Mardi Gras floats under construction for next year.

Breakfast at Brennans, the Imax movie, “Katrina” and an above-ground cemetery will be other stops. www.neworleanscvb.com, 800-672-6124.

-- LuAnn Williams, Madison

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I thoroughly enjoyed your articles about Bavaria. We have traveled to many of the countries in Europe, and it is so great to refresh the mind and see how someone else pictures the same things we saw.

-- Jean Drewiske, Wisconsin Rapids

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I have enjoyed you articles about Bavaria. Although I have not been there, I have spent many Decembers just before Christmas in Cologne and saw many similarities in your descriptions of the country. Germany is beautiful and the people are so friendly. I look forward to my next visit.

-- John McDermott, Madison

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I read with interest your article about Bavaria and the German heritage here in Wisconsin. The Madison Maennerchor is the oldest German men's chorus here in Wisconsin, and we think the second-oldest in the United States, having been formed in 1852.
 Please take a look at our website, www.mmc1852.org, and read about our history and programs.   -- Tim Hughes, Madison Maennerchor president  --

I never knew there were so many interesting places in Wisconsin. Have you ever been to the Lakeside B&B in Florence? It is truly a delight! The food, atmosphere and hostess Rita McMullen are fantastic. My family and I can’t say enough good things about it.

-- Mary Huberty, Eden

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I operate a web site named “Wisconsin Central” as a hobby (www.wisconsincentral.net). I drive around the state, often on “get lost rides,” take photos of things that interest me, then return and research what I’ve seen. Then I prepare a story and post it.

I’ve been doing this for about a year. I have only lived in Wisconsin for two years, so everything is new to me, and I love the state.  -- Ed Marek, Wausau

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You probably have some good ideas for a family get-together. We are trying to get together this winter for snowshoeing, ice skating, sledding. We would like to rent a house/cabin/condo and would like to cook our own meals. What would fit the bill?
 -- Pam Pisca, Schofield

I’ve had great luck when using www.vrbo.com, a website where property owners across the nation list their vacation rental units. They are as small as a one-bedroom condo, as large as luxury homes with multiple bedrooms and bathrooms.  A friend used this website a year ago, to plan a reunion of 15 relatives in the state of Oregon. He was not disappointed.  That said, be sure to read descriptions closely. Occasionally cleaning fees or security deposits are charged, in addition to daily/weekly rental fees. There also is a place on the website to ask questions of the property owner, before committing. You could ask about access to skating/sledding/snowshoeing, if that type of thing isn’t addressed in the property description.

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Do you have any info on spa retreats in southern Wisconsin?

-- Susan Radtke, Madison

It’s not exactly southern Wisconsin, but I’m partial to the Kohler area, and it need not be over-the-top expensive.

The Inn on Woodlake, 705 Woodlake Road, is a terrific alternative to the typically more-expensive rates of The American Club. This hotel, also part of the Kohler family, is an easy walk from almost everything that the area offers, fine dining to spa services, free factory tours to industrial art walks.   Guests receive an extended continental breakfast with at least one hot item (such as biscuits with gravy, or pancakes). Bakery comes from The American Club kitchens – a wonderful plus. www.destinationkohler.com, 800-344-2838, ext. 700.   Saturday cooking demos are offered at the Shops at Woodlake this month. Check the website above for topics, details.

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Check out Hidden Treasures Botanical Tours, a Missouri-based company that leads garden tours throughout the world. We went on the master gardeners’ trip to Costa Rica trip last year, and it was excellent. www.hiddentreasuresbotanicaltours.com, 573-881-6316.

On our return flight, we bumped into some birdwatchers from Madison Audubon who had also been on a Costa Rica tour. (The group lists Wisconsin field trips at www.madisonaudubon.org. The National Audubon Society organizes trips worldwide, through Audubon Nature Odysseys at http://travel.audubon.org, 800-967-7425.)

-- Ronnie Hess, Madison

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If you haven’t voted for your favorite small towns in Wisconsin, now is the time to do it. More than 20 voting categories – involving 66 communities of less than 15,000 residents – are listed at www.wondersofwisconsin.com. Only one vote per e-mail address is allowed. Sorry, there are no paper ballots.

Most lighthouses, best burgers, lodging

Sat, 1 Sep 2007 19:20:05 -0500

More lighthouses than any other county in the country: Door County promotional materials included this assertion for years.

The state Department of Tourism still mentions this tidbit in its online list of tourism facts. The state Department of Natural Resources’ magazine has used the description in its articles.

The Door County Board of Realtors repeats the claim on its website, as do resorts in Egg Harbor and Sister Bay; popular online resources, such as Wikipedia.com; and tour companies, such as Colorado-based Timberline Adventures.

Problem is, the boast isn’t true. Door County’s 10 lighthouses is a lot, but it’s not the most, as Roland Babineau of Massachusetts pointed out, after our recent column about lighthouses and lighthouse art.

Babineau, editor of the Lighthouse Encyclopedia, a product at www.thecapecodstore.com, contends Cape Cod’s Barnstable County is the leader, with 15 lighthouses. His note listed them and ended with “thanks for allowing me to set the record straight.”

Problem is, Barnstable County doesn’t have the most either. Brian Kelsey, executive director of the Door County Maritime Museum, says the Cape Cod list includes lighthouses that have moved or no longer exist.

He considers Suffolk County, New York, to be the leader, with 15 of its 26 lighthouses still standing.

“I’ve done quite a bit of research,” Brian says, and that includes setting the record straight about Door County. “I’ve tried to steer clear of ‘most’ lighthouses” because it’s inaccurate. Jon Jarosh of the Door County Visitor Bureau says his office’s promotional materials have been adjusted, because of Brian’s findings.

“We want to be credible,” he says, but there’s no way to force a change in what other websites purport.

Former lighthouses, lighthouses still standing, lighthouses still in operation, and navigational lights vs. lighthouses all can complicate the distinction. Using “county” as the base for comparison also is unusual and hard to track.

“Active aids to navigation” is how Brian classifies Door County’s 10 lighthouses. The U.S. Lighthouse Society lists 56 Wisconsin lighthouses in its database, which includes those that no longer exist.

The state with the most lighthouses is Michigan, which has about 120 still standing, says the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which places these structures on its 2007 list of Most Endangered Places. For more: www.nationaltrust.org/11most.

Other lighthouse mail:

“Thank you for writing about one of my favorite topics,” writes Anona Nelson, of the Eau Claire area, but “I was disappointed to not to see any mention of any of the six lighthouses in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore or Split Rock in Minnesota.”

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Some of you are eager to talk about much-loved burger joints.

“Our favorite drive for an excellent burger (and sweet potato fries) is in Shullsburg,” write Bill and Jean Wyss, Monroe. “Small, intimate and great window seats. Love the old architecture that abounds in this small town.”

For more about the Water Street Place Pub & Eatery, 202 W. Water St.: www.waterstreetplace.com, 608-965-3228.

Nolan Gokey of Madison fills us in on Pete's Hamburger Stand, 118 W. Blackhawk Ave., Prairie du Chien.

“My grandfather started the place in 1909, and it is still going strong. There is no dining area, no air conditioning, and the only food other than burgers that we sell is chips. But people line up every Friday, Saturday and Sunday to get their burgers.

“It may seem like the business model is perhaps not the best, but we do well and people keep coming back.”

His grandmother is in charge, with staffing by grandchildren and great-grandchildren. The seasonal business closes in October. For more: 608-326-1919.

Sheboygan native Mary Ashley notes our fondness for Chester’s Drive-in, 1504 Eastern Ave., Plymouth. “On a recent visit to see family, my brother suggested Chester's, and my sister-in-law's comment was ‘great, but bring along a roll of paper toweling.’ Between the juicy burger and the generous amount of butter, no ordinary napkin was enough for Chester's burgers.”   “Now that you have me ravenous for a good burger,” she adds. “do you know of any place in the Madison area where you can buy a good Sheboygan hard roll?   Sorry, Mary. We have good bakeries, but I know of none that come up with a hard roll quite like City Bakery, 1102 Michigan Ave., Sheboygan. For more: 920-892-7722 (Chester’s) and 920-457-4493 (City Bakery).

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Dennis Appleton of Madison writes to recommend Britannia Bed & Breakfast, N7136 Hwy. 42, Algoma. It is one mile south of Lake Michigan’s Algoma Lighthouse.

The innkeepers are “a couple of British ex-pats, John and Nicky Friend,” Dennis says. “Two more delightful individuals would be hard to find on either side of the pond. They had long been smitten by this part of our country, having spent much vacation time here, so when they decided to take the trans-Atlantic leap, they landed in Algoma.”

Although the lake views and amenities are laudable, “breakfast is what makes the Britannia worth the trip. Nicky provides a British breakfast second to none, from French press coffee to fresh homemade scones, all served on the most beautiful china and silver, with a huge helping of English hospitality.”

For more: www.britanniabb.com, 920-487-3471.

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Eugene Thompson of Madison writes about an unusual vacation rental cottage that he and wife Kathleen own on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, on the shore of Lake Superior.

“The Ford Motor Company had considerable acreage in the upper peninsula,” he says. “What Henry Ford called ‘The Bungalow’ was part of this. It served as a summer residence for Henry and Clara during much of the 1920s and they were often summer visitors” afterward.    The 5,000-square-foot cottage has nine bedrooms and six full baths. Families and other groups typically rent the entire property for reunions or other outings.

Located in unincorporated Pequaming, on Keweenaw Bay in Baraga County, “it isn't in a well-known or well-developed tourist area.” The cottage is about 325 miles from Madison. For more: 608-221-0196.

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Sheila Nelson of Cassville wants us to know that she values Stonefield, a state historical site that is home to the State Agricultural Museum and former home of Nelson Dewey, Wisconsin’s first governor.

“I always get the feeling that (Dewey’s) professional successes continue to go unnoticed,” she writes.

Stonefield – on Hwy. VV and just north of Cassville on Hwy. 133 – is open until Oct. 14. For more: www.wisconsinhistory.org/stonefield, 608-725-5210.

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Last, it was great to hear from Pat Cummings of Schofield, regarding Wisconsin rodeos.

“I just wanted to let you know that I was the very first Wisconsin High School Rodeo Queen, in June l960,” writes Pat, whose father – Orval “Red” Smith – helped establish high school rodeo competition in the state.